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山水西南 1往事如歌 往事如歌，余音绕梁而三日不绝也。 这是除了本学期以外课业负担最轻的一个学期，也是我学习得最累的一个学期。我时常问自 己，为什么要为了这可望而不可及的事情或目标付出如此的代价？这似乎是一个多选题，而其中的 一个选项就是：为了能在这学期心安理得地出行。 一个人走在南大附中（注47：这里指南开大学附属中学）寂静的楼道里和积雪的操场上，有 一种如释重负的感觉，为了这两天半的速战速决，我与科技馆的后门相伴了多少个白日；我不惜金 钱与疲劳，往返于津宁两地；还有那在地校、河海以及新兴影院（注48：新兴影院，在天津）的日 子；如今，这一切总算都结束了。 杨亚敏如一颗流星，突兀地出现在我的生活中，首次乘飞机的兴奋与快感真的被她冲淡了许 多，而从浦东机场到上海站，这斑斓的夜上海也在她喋喋不休的叙谈中失却了光泽。火车终于到了 杭州，耳根也清静了许多，而她不知是否如她所说在我将要工作的地方工作。 进退不得地挤在招聘会的人海中，我终于亲自体会到了人生的艰辛与不易。从第二次乘飞机 到最终签约，其间有一些事情，诸如在工行与李芊（注49：李芊，女，我的高中文科班同学）和王 志惠（注50：王志惠，女，我的高中文科班同学）的邂逅，中信的横插一杠，而最令我心动的还是 在嫂嫂办公室实习的那位女生，嫂嫂跟我说那些话时颇漫不经心，而将心比心的我油然对那女生产 生了一丝同情甚至歉意。真实的社会就是如此，温情永远只是面纱。 俗话说：桂林山水甲天下。有人不以为然，说从桂林到贵阳的火车上，都能见到那种山，那 么，西南山水甲天下，该不错吧。 2 Goldden & Dark Green Kunming It’s the longest train travel in my life that in the train No.K155 from Nanjing West to Kunming. Not long after setting out, a young attendant came to blows with an Anhui man, and another older one, often deceived the passenger to buy soft berth tickets. The man who sat with me, often cough and spat to the ground. I disliked him, but he sat there until Guiyang was arrived. So I was in trouble for a long time. Through three days’ travel, I reached at Kunming , checked in the guest house of the industrial and commercial bank .The other day, I went to Gaoqiao by the No. 6 bus, then I began climbing Xishan Mountain. Passed the Huating Temple and the Nie’er’s Tomb, I arrived at the Dragon Gate at last. The Dianchi Lake could be seen here. In the “Travel in China by Yourself”, it said you must took one day in World Horti-EXPO Garden, so I thought I must go to other places of Kunming today. Leaving Xishan Mountain, I went to Daguan Building. It was not so great as what I imaged. In the bus from Daguan Building to Yuan Tong East Rd, I saw the Gold & Dark Green Square, where situated the Golden Horse Memorial Archway and Dark Green Cock Memorial Archway. Golden Horse and Dark Green Cock is the symbol of Kunming. But I couldn’t find No. 10 bus there, so I had to walk to North Railway station to go to Golden Palace. When I walked out of it, it’s still early, so I went to the Military Hall of Yunnan Army and Kunming Museum, which situated the Sutra Tower of Dali. When I was waiting for the bus to railway station, I thought of the Southwest United University（注51：西南联合大学，其校址即现在的云南师范大学）, why did not I go there? With a little trouble, I found the monument and classroom of SUU. And then I studied in the classroom of Yunnan Normal University, the classroom was so shabby that which of NJU was better than it. In the waiting room and in the train, I lived with two travel groups, one is from Zhejiang and the other Beijing. I was tired after a day’s rush and felled into sleep soon on the berth. 3大理风月 一出大理站，等待我的除了著名的下关风，还有铺天盖地的穿着白族服装的导游，我于她们 倒不甚反感，但我的计划中大理只有今日的半天，所以一日游是不能参加的，加之这边天亮得比东 部要晚得多，我只有回到候车室静待天明。 大理站前宽阔的马路和远方积雪的苍山令人豁然开朗，但在洱海公园，相机却给了我当头一 棒，最终在黄果树，我以更大的代价弄清了所谓原委，此乃后话。 大理古城确应算座古城，从倒影公园出来，搭车赴蝴蝶泉，蝴蝶泉诚如书上所言，门票价格 不菲，却无甚意思，不过我确实在这里看到了一只蝴蝶，当然，只有一只。 很难想象从这路一直走下去便到了拉萨，但如今去丽江的车已不走这条路了。我赶回下关， 终于乘上开往丽江的车，走新修的大丽一级公路，3个小时便到了丽江。 4 Lijiang, Full of Affection I went to the ancient city as soon as I finished checking in, thought I lost my way there, I was really conquered by the quaint buildings and limpid stream around them. Water is the sprit of the city. Sifang Street was the busiest section of the town, many foreigners lived there. I had supper in a restaurant along the stream. Far from the modern civilization, it’s the best place where you could relax your heart. By the next dinning table sitting two students who were sketching. Lijiang , was a paradise of the artists. Night was coming, I went to the Hall of Naxi Ancient Music, but before it I entered my name for the one-day’s travel of the Yulong Snow Capped Mountain. The Naxi Ancient Music was lost for a long time until Mr. Xuanke, who was the president of the Naxi Ancient Music Association, found and compiled it again. Xuanke was the chair of the concert, he was a humorous man and his English was good. Every day ther were a lot of foreigners went there, and today, what’s more, some Japanese came here because they came here to invite the orchestra to go to Japan. Until now, they had been to many countries of the world. So Mr. Xuanke said that they were better than the Chinese Football Team because they had already been out to the world from China. The members of the orchestra, much of them were very old and some would pass away every year, then their photo would be hung up. But some young man and woman, played well also. They gave the audiences an excellent performance and I enjoyed myself that night. Except the guide and the driver, there were only 4 men in our group. Two airline hostesses from Dalian, a lady from Beijing and I. The guide, whose name was ZhangYu-jie, she said we could called her Little Zhang. I didn’t know she was younger than me or not and I still call her Miss Zhang. She dressed Naxi clothing but she was Han nationality. The two girls from Dalian said that a Naxi driver almost cheated them yesterday. The driver said he knew him and he was Han nationality not Naxi. At the side of the road to Yulong Mountain, there was a monument for HongKong People who denoted money to Lijiang People after the earthquake took place some years ago. But all Chinese People helped Lijiang in that moment, why a monument could remember only HongKong People? Miss Zhang told us because HongKong People sew money in the clothes which were given to Lijiang as they worried that if they gave money directly, the money would be corrupted by the leader, then when the Lijiang People received the clothes, they got the money with a lot of surprise and grate. It could be seen that HongKong was really a part of China, as the HongKong People knew Chinese so well. With the moving of our bus, Yulong Mountain became closer and closer. Miss Zhang said we met a very good weather, one girl said because we were all from far away, from North. To iceberg garden, first, you must change to get in the big bus of the park, then go there by cableway. When we arrived at last, I was very excite with nothing unwell. Two girls played with each other. I walked with the lady, she was a native of Anhui and graduated in East China Water Conservancy College, now called Hohai University(注52：河海大学) .She entered a travel group in Beijing, but the group was composed of only herself. She said that, in Dali, the guide lead only one woman, her, to play. But after a while, she felt not well, so I climbed in the stair myself until 4571M. A soldier was there who stopped travelers climbing, as it was danger above. We came back to the rest room on time. One girl, felt very bad, maybe she played too violent, so we went down soon. After lunch, we went to White River. It’s so beautiful a piece of picture in front of me. In this place, one girl threw her camera down to the river with careless. Then DongBa Garden, I thought I shouldn’t like this kind of place, but the guide there really taught me a lot. Had seen the frescoes in Baisha, we went back. Two girls let Miss Zhang go shopping with them in the ancient city. I let the driver drive to the Heilongtan Park, in which I went to DongBa Civilization Museum freely. Then I went to the ancient city again, and I lost my way again as yesterday. I really didn’t want, but I really must, said Bye to Lijiang, Lijiang’s building, Lijiang’s street, Lijiang’s water, Lijiang’s mountain, and Miss Zhang, a native of Lijiang, a good guide, a good girl. 5建水文藻 一进汽车站，率先入目的是一辆发往虎跳峡的车。我怎能不心中一动？要不要去虎跳峡呢？ 大连的两个空姐今天是去的，她们还希望张小姐作导游，小张说你们可以跟旅行社提要她去。但一 望车上并无游客模样的人，最终还是放弃了。但坐在发往下关的车上，心中总有一丝失落感，虎跳 峡虽原本不在计划中，但有此一机会，终而放弃，未免可惜。我思来想去，竟起了恢复建水的念 头，此意一生，原本宽松的行程立时紧张，紧张得喜欢紧张的我都有点紧张了。 车在将到下关时忽的停了，原来前方出了事故，而坐在我旁边的一个女孩居然给我糖吃，而 我居然吃了，但她问我到下关去干什么，我则搪塞了过去，其实这个问题还真不好答，如果告诉她 我到下关是为了去巍山玩，不知她会说些什么。不过女孩是在大理古城下的车，她是大理人？亦或 去玩？管她呢，随她去吧。 找到去巍山的车站颇费了番功夫，好在最终我终于在半日之内解决了巍山，巍宝山的建筑确 实很有特色，不过最难忘的还是检票员在以为我是南开而得知我是南大的学生后发出的“哇塞” 声，我着实有些“受惊若宠”（裴平语），南大在国内确实很少得到与其地位相当的赞美。 在大理站的候车室，又见到了那个浙江的旅游团，不知她们这些天都去了哪里。原本打算花 一天的时间去逛世博园，但北京的女士说她在里边只待了2个小时，而要去建水，恐真的只能待2个 小时了。 虽然来得早了些，还没有开门，却因此赶上了原先不知道的开园仪式，我起初一直搞不懂世 博园何以能在世博会后热闹至今，通过这个开园仪式，似乎有了答案，是一种先进的经营理念在维 系着这“九九世博会”之后的“永久世博园”。北京女士所言端的不错，世博园这地方，若要好好 看，一天也不够，但大体上瞧瞧，2个小时足以了。而在我心中留下印象最深的，还不是各国或各 省市的什么园艺，而是直辖市展厅中的那幅移花接木的照片，站在这高楼林立的“今日天津”照片 前，我真有一种愧为天津人的感觉，亏他们想的出来！ 从昆明到建水，先借用了一段昆玉高速到通海，然后便开始翻山，有一段路，车就在山崖边 行使，下面便是万丈河谷，我方知无名英雄的伟大，如修这路的人。 建水，隶属于红河州，沈阳还因下雪封闭机场，这边早已夏意浓浓了。燕子洞，名不虚传， 攀岩表演更是令人叫绝，没有任何工具和保护设施而在山岩上攀来爬去，比日后龙虎山的悬棺表演 更胜了一筹。文庙，与建水一中毗邻，这里可以看到中午还在刻苦念书的学生，以往看到这些学 生，我不过为她们的刻苦精神所打动一番，而今日我突然又起了一种念头，想到自己就要告别学生 时代了，多少有些不是滋味。 朱家花园真是意外的收获，这一座精雕细琢的“西南大观园”我竟浑然不知，幸亏在燕子洞 买了导游图。回昆明倒不很顺利，由于没坐直达车，那车到了通海，便把我们转到另一辆车上，而 那车不走高速，开呀开呀，经过一个大湖，以为是滇池，后来查地图应是抚仙湖。眼见天黑了，车 却开进了山里，坐在身边的那家伙忿忿不平，还与司机斗了几句嘴。好不容易到了昆明，9点20， 但已无公交车，我只得打的到了火车站，依旧住工行招待所，但负责往电脑里输信息的那厮居然霸 占着男浴室洗个没完，她此举可谓一举两得，我一则洗不了澡，二则也拿不回身份证。索性批了接 待我的那警卫一顿，但他态度倒很好，使我无法继续发怒，这可恶而可爱的昆明人。 在去石林的火车上，便有旅行社来进行宣传，我本想自己去的，不过最终还是选择参加了一 日游。绝大多数人都去大叠水，选择乃古石林的只有我们五个人，这样的人数真的恰恰好，导游王 丽艳，让我们叫她王阿诗玛（注53：在撒尼语中，阿诗玛就是对年轻女子的称呼），是一位看上去 年纪不小的撒尼姑娘。由于人少，她便可以娓娓道来而不是呼前喝后了。同行的有一对新疆的老夫 妻，还有两个同事，好象在四川工作，其中一个年轻人不知道南大也就罢了，居然问我河海大学是 不是改名叫南京大学了。但这并未改变游览的美好，在欣赏了乃古石林、大石林、小石林后，还有 民族歌舞表演和茶艺表演。茶艺表演，四道茶，谓之迎客茶、普洱王茶、绿茶、花茶，五个人加上 为我们讲解的小姐共处一室，门一关，细细品茗，当真清幽无比。 石林之旅缓解了我连日奔波的疲乏，我以平适的心情告别了这七彩的云南，登上开往安顺的 火车。 6 Safe & Successfully Anshun, in Chinese, means safe and successfully, it’s the best wish to a traveler, but my travel in Anshun is not as that its name means. Not as Yunnan’s, Guizhou’s sky was gloomy all the time, not as Yunnan’s, Guizhou’s mountains were more delicate, like Guilin’s. From Anshun to Zhijin Cave, our bus was in mountain all along. I remembered the saying: “There’re few days which are sunny; there’re few lands which are smooth.” “If you had been to Huangshan Mountain, you needn’t go to others, and there’re no other caves which are worth your going to if you had been to Zhijin Cave.” Maybe this saying heard exaggerate, but Zhijin Cave, was really good. It took you two hours and a half to walk through it. The guide looked beautiful, but weak. She walked so slowly and her voice was so gentle. I thought maybe she was very tired because she should lead 3 or 4 groups of visitors a day and we’re the last group she lead today. The next day, I went to Huangguoshu Falls and Dragon Palace, the men went along with me were an old gentleman from Jiangxi, four Northeast men, and the driver, who was also a native of Northeast, came here with his parents when he was two. The driver said to us, “The Sun Island of Harbin is very famous in China, but it’s not more beautiful than any small hill of Guizhou.” I disliked Northeast men because they were so rough. But the gentleman knew travel much, though not more than me, the places which he had been were more. He told me Dragon & Tiger Mountain was a good place. In Huangguoshu, I found what’s wrong with my camera, but I paid a high price. And at last, I couldn’t go to Tianxing Bridge. But, in any case, I got one day additional. How could I use it? First, I decided to give this day to Guiyang or Sanjiang, but on second thoughts, Dragon & Tiger Mountain got the chance. Because of the price, my films were not enough, I went shopping for it, but either in the supermarket or in the mall, there weren’t films on sale. Oh, utterly detestable, ZhouJie lived in such a place, so dirty, so dilapidated, so backward, even worse than Tianjin. 7贵阳两地 无怪陈婷不会骑车，贵阳和重庆、青岛一样，已具备了发达国家的表象：马路上绝少有自行 车。 那东北司机说，别看贵黄高速只是两车道，已是贵州第二好的公路了，而最好的贵遵高速有 四个车道。而实际情况是：除了刚出贵阳的一段，绝大部分依旧是两车道或三车道。遵义不愧是革 命名城，在这里，我见到了久违的太阳。 在青龙洞上俯瞰镇远，还是座不错的小城，但既已拜读过声讨的文章，总觉得那吊脚楼看上 去有些别扭，似乎过于新了些。而河这边从火车站到青龙洞这一路上则是标准的毫无特色的脏、 乱、差。 第三天的上午原本是打算休息的，但报纸上的报导使我到省博物馆去瞧了潘玉良的画展，知 道潘玉良，自然源于《画魂》，但我今日方知她也和徐悲鸿一样是南大（中大）的先师。 就要告别贵州了，灰蒙蒙的贵州着实未给我留下什么好印象，总觉得要比云南差了一个档次。但 造型独特的贵阳火车站却令人耳目一新，甚至感觉像一座机场，站台虽破，但其上却赫然挂着天津钟 表厂出的时钟，令人感到一丝亲切。 8 Half a Day in Liuzhou 3:00,the train arrived in Liuzhou, I had to wait in the ticket room till morning. Liuzhou, just as what the weather forecast said, was also cloudy. Yufeng Hill and Liu Marquis Park were the places where old people did exercises. Standing among them, I felt unfit. Near Yufeng Hill, I saw a beautiful girl, who was a pupil with a bag on her shoulder, knelt on the ground. In front of her was a piece of paper on the ground, on which wrote that her family was very poor and, what’s more, her elder brother died on work. And, not far from her, was another pupil, a boy, did the same thing, but he wrote on the ground by chalk himself, so lots of men came to see what he did. Just like before, I sympathized them indeed but without giving them anything. Dule Cliff, not as the former two, there’re no old here, because there were even no visitor. I felt so awkward that I didn’t climb the hill, just walked around, and then turned back to the railway station. 9烟雨桂林 我实在是太累了，在从柳州到桂林的火车上，着实猛睡了一把。 桂林，山中有城，城中有山。安顿好住宿，先去象鼻山。在这里，电视台正在拍少儿节目， 可叹小男孩和小女孩的天性被摄象机遮盖得荡然无存，在NG了若干次后终于为导演大人认可，真不 知这片子是拍给谁看的。 回到旅馆，打听漓江一日游，是包括阳朔的，便欣然报了名，如此，又可以挤出一天去灵渠 了。次日，天空瓢着细细的雨丝，导游说，这也不要紧，不是说什么北京（没听清）、夜上海、雾 重庆、雨桂林吗，漓江烟雨，别有特色。坦言之，我不喜欢这个让我们管她叫“顾狗肉（注54：狗 肉，桂林话，“朋友”的意思）”的导游，年纪大且胖，这倒不是主要原因，而是她言语中总透着 一种盛气凌人的味道，似乎在她眼中，游客都是如此无知。其实，你既为桂林的导游，对桂林的了 解程度当然比普通游客高了，这是很自然的事，何必或何苦非要用教师对学生说话的口吻与游客交 流呢？ 漓江烟雨或许是有名的，但我却情愿是个晴天，总觉得这阴雨蒙蒙的景象是打了折的，饶是 如此，从开船后1小时直到午饭，我始终是亢奋的。说准确些，今日这漓江就如一幅天下闻名的水 墨画，原先是只闻其名，今朝终得一睹芳容，心下虽隐隐觉得似乎不过如此，脸上却是绝无不屑之 情。 到了阳朔，我们被换到了另一辆车上，而那辆车上的一帮东北人（又是可恶的东北人）对我 们的到来颇为不满，开始指责他们的马导，而马、顾二导也软磨硬泡地与他们周旋，想起在玉龙雪 山和石林的一日游，觉得云南的旅游业与黔、桂相比，竟是如此之规范。 又结识了一位老先生，居然是南京人，此次来桂林是看他在此工作的儿子，他向我介绍了桂 林一处专卖工艺品的地方，还有心和我一同回宁，但我尚要到江西一行，故谢绝之。 来之前在《中国旅游报》上读到读者批评九乡和云南民族村的“逼婚”行为，便有了警惕， 而在云南却没有遇到过，第一次遭此“艳祸”是在龙宫，不过善良的布依姑娘接受了我们的退婚请 求，而苗人则不，在大榕树，黑洞洞的苗寨管叫你雁过拔毛，而在“世外桃源”，只要你略一迟 疑，定叫苗女生擒了去。有人说这是民俗，有人说这是庸俗，其实，关键还在于财礼费，而仔细想 想，这些姑娘挣这点钱也是不易的。 看来我注定要领略“雨桂林”的风采了，欣赏过芦笛岩、七星岩的洞中奇景，雨也正式下起 来了。难道我竟被雨浇昏了头？居然花15元进了广师大。（注55：所谓“靖江王府”，其所在就 是广西师范大学的校园，若从王府正门进入，是要买门票的，而广师大校门前尽管也有售票的牌 子，但直接往里走是没有人管的，但这些情况我当时并不知道）而登上叠彩山，四下真可谓“白茫 茫厚地高天”。坏运气并未到此为止，第三天从灵渠、李宗仁故居回来，天竟晴了，思前想后，终 于没有再去爬叠彩山。 从桂林到兴安，一个半小时的车程，也配有服务小姐，她看来还真是个实习生，将到兴安说 送客词时，居然忘了词而哑在那里，真令人忍俊不禁。 李宗仁的故居可谓真正的“人去楼空”，人固然不在了，家具也没多少，空空如也的房子就 这样空空如也着。 从叠彩山到广师大，因为公交车改道，我不得不步行了一段，而这一段所见的漓江才真正让 我感到了她的美。阴沉的天气，疲惫的身心，竟使我在两天的游览中始终没有真正找到美感。 这一回进广师大可不用交钱了，堂而皇之地走了进去，从而更为昨日的行为后悔。先在教室 里看《体坛周报》，不一会儿竟被告之教学楼要锁门，难道广师大的学生晚上都不上自习？看了一 会儿篮球赛，这帮人也真够可以的，我坐在那足有十分钟，双方你来我往，竟没进一个球；又去看 两个女生练功，不禁想若有哪个女生在南大的草坪上像她们这样扭来扭去，会是什么情形。最后， 欣赏了一会儿乒乓球，广师大学生的乒乓球水平臭得真是可以了。 如果说此次旅行就此结束，似乎也不为过，江西不过是顺便一玩。坐在候车室里，想想大 理、丽江、石林，似乎是很遥远的事了。我即将回到现实，我注定要回到现实。 10 Hero City & Porcelain Capital Just as Nanjing, there’re travel buses in Nanchang Railway Station, but when I arrived at the former residence of ZhuDe, it’s closed. I had no idea but to go to Nanchang Uprising Museum. Then Badashanren Museum, after finishing visiting it, I asked a girl looked like ZhangJie how I could go back, she gave me the answer and we took the No.20 and No.27 bus together, but she didn’t go to the railway station. In the train from Nanchang to Hangzhou, there’re a husband who looked like HeJian and his wife sat toward me, an old lady sat in left with me and a boy right. HeJian went to Yiwu to work as a laborer, to my surprise, the boy also went there to look for a job, and he was only 19. Though I had passed through Yingtan some times, it’s still strange to me, as I almost never made a plan to go there. However, I was now in this place. In the hostel, I found TJTV could be received and from it I knew Tianjin Female Volleyball Team had kept their position in the league match, it’s a piece of good news. Going to Dragon & Tiger Mountain, I had nothing prepared for. I saw there’re buses to Dragon & Tiger Mountain or Tianshi Palace. I just got in a bus to Tianshi Palace by chance, but according to the map I bought a little latter, it’s right. Leaving Tianshi Palace, I came to the bamboo raft dock, but at that moment, there’re no other travelers there, so I must wait. Lucky, after awhile, came a group of travelers from Nanchang, the leader of them was a lady looked like YangDong-mei. She bargained with the manager, but at last she bought the tickets and asked for a guide. I sat at the first row, when I didn’t know the guide sat in the front. The guide, Miss Zou, named ZouXiu-ying, told us nit only the scenery but also something about Tianshi Palace, but these Nanchang men, made a lot of noise. I disliked them, and, I thought “Xiu-ying” was too common as a girl’s name. After a while, the men who sat behind said that they couldn’t hear what the guide said and let her sat behind. It’s very normal, but a woman sat with me said that I should change place with them because they spend money to ask for the guide. I disliked her this sentence especially. Finally, Miss Zou sat in the middle. At noon, we arrived in Wuwen Village, the name meant there’re no mosquito there all the time. In this village, YangDong-mei hesitated that if they should have lunch here. I was hungry so I advised her eat something here and persuaded her at last, so the boss of the restaurant made two-fried dish for me and I paid only ten yuan. Miss Zou, she wanted to have lunch with me at first, but she couldn’t reject Nanchang men’s invite. I thought that she couldn’t enjoy herself facing with so may people. After lunch, we continued our navigation, but the new boat-men asked us to sit in two rafts. Ten men first and others second. Then ten Nanchang men got on the first raft, but on the second raft there’re only six chairs and we were seven men including the guide. A young Nanchang man was so foolish that he let Miss Zou sat on his chair so I could sat with her. Her loud-speaker was not so good that it seemed that she only speak to me. I knew the Nanchang men felt not well but I felt happy. Fairy Celestial Crag was our terminus. In front of the entrance, there was a pavilion on the cliff in which people could see the suspended coffin on the other side. Nanchang men let Miss Zou lead them up. As a guide, she should agree right now, but with times of requisitions, she just walk up behind these men, and I followed her. When she climbed to the place not far from the pavilion, some men were already there. She stooped and said, “Could you see the coffin? I think I needn’t go up.” I thought about something suddenly and asked her, “Do you fear high?” “Yeah, let’s go down.” I went back with her and followed with YangDong-mei, she was fearful also. In Fairy Celestial Crag, many men didn’t know how it looked like a woman, and Miss Zou, were too shy to say directly, YangDong-mei asked me also, I knew because I had seen the brief in the entrance just now. After a hesitation, I said to her, “The crag looked like the pudenda of a woman who just had a bath and without clothes.” I saw she looked a little shy, maybe this kind of landscape was not very fit to Chinese people. But YangDong-mei, when she knew I was a student of NJU, began to ask me some questions about colledge as her son would take in the College Gate Test this year. After watching the suspended coffin performance, our travel was over. In fact, I should thank these Nanchang men, without them, I didn’t know when I can get on the raft, let alone the guide. On my way back, I quarreled with some people in the bus. “Jiangxi men are too bad.” I said to myself for to others in my seat. In the hostel, I knew TEDA and Sichuan tied at 2-2, foolish JiangJin! And at night, the“Tell It Like It”（注56：《实话实说》）, LvDao, WangYing and a man I forgot his name, had walked by their feet along the boundary from Guangxi to Liaoning, it’s a program of GDTV, people discussed with each other, but I thought, in any case, they’re brave. Jingdezhen, I went to Hutian Kiln and Procelain Museum, then went to Nanmentou by bus, turned left, I saw a road sign wrote “Xiangji Up Lane”. Yeah, I got it! It’s so smooth! In the train from Jingdezhen to Nanjing, I saw a girl who I thought was a student of the department of industrial and commercial management, but I didn’t call her. 11余音绕梁 往事如歌，余音绕梁而三日不绝也。 这二十余日，我颠沛流离在祖国的西南角，为的是什么？目的何在？这一问题似乎比为何考 研还要难答，也许我为的就是这样的颠沛流离，或许便如吕岛所说，出行就是为了体味孤独。 不是吗？在建水、在桂林，两次往家打电话，这在原先几次出行中是没有的，毕竟是单枪匹 马的23天呀。 “有了钱去玩，和学生时代这种穷玩，绝对不一样。”北京女士如是说。我尚未工作，尚未 尝过有钱的滋味，不过可以看一看大连的空姐，她们可是利用休息日双飞来丽江的呀，她们和我的 感受，或者说，我和她们的感受，怎么会一样呢？ 很多人说我国导游的素质低，但在我看来，小张、王阿诗玛、邹小姐，还有燕子洞的、织金 洞的、龙宫的、山水园的、芦笛岩的、七星岩的，都是很好的导游，诚然，她们不过初中毕业，读 了两三年旅游学校，甚至于只接受过一些培训，但我以为她们的职业素养、敬业精神，相较于游客 的整体素质，实是大大的高了。 我时常在想，尤其是当我看到邹小姐被那帮南昌人冷落在一旁一个人略显忧郁的样子，她们 的将来会怎样？倘若干得很出色，会有什么晋升的机会？或许当然我是多虑了，5年后，我还不知 道在哪呢，况且她人自有她人的生活方式。 西南的山水当然是秀美的，但是，在路上，经常可以见到“珍爱生命，远离毒品”，“娶妻 不娶文盲女，嫁汉不嫁文盲汉”的标语；在昆明，在贵阳，在桂林，出了火车站便会有女人凑上来 问你玩不玩小姐；而几乎在每一个景点，上至七旬老太，下至四、五岁的儿童，还有背上背着孩子 的妇女，摇尾乞怜地请你买她们的东西。这一切的一切，都表明在这美景的背后，有着更多沉重的 东西，而与之相比，23天西南之行所接触到的人和事实是太肤浅了。 玉龙雪山、丽江古城，该是最好的景点了，然而，我更喜欢的是在从大理到丽江、巍山，从 昆明到建水，从安顺到织金的车上见到的景色，这样说，并无贬低雪山和古城的意思，只是我以 为，最美丽的风景，永远，在路上。 （《山水西南》至此终） 作者：liaogou1
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